“Marx’s overcoat
was to go in and out of the pawnshop throughout the 1850s and early 1860s. And
his overcoat directly determined what work he could or could not do. If his
overcoat was at the pawnshop during the winter, he could not go to the British
Museum. If he could not go to the British Museum, he could not undertake the
research for Capital.”
Marx’s coat
shapes his entire life. The connection between Marx’s cloth and his life is not
just a simple relation. There are more materials needed in Marx’s writing that
is also connected to his coat. Marx needs writing material such as newspapers,
books, pen, ink, and paper to write his book. The supply for these essential
materials for Marx is relying on whether his coat is in the pawnshop or not. In
Marx’s thinking, the functionality of his coat is not keeping warm; there is
some other value of it. Marx’s coat explained not only the structure of the exploitation
relationship between capitalist class and working class but also the on how
tools effect workers.
Stallybrass
argues that Marx’s theory on commodity should not be that straight and obvious.
The study of materials around our life is the study of reaching human values
and real life. Marx wrote about a cloth as a cell-form of capitalism in Capital. Stallybrass believes that other
than the abstract value and the oppression of labor, clothes and objects
construct people’s life and self-recognition. Marx’s clothes determine his
everyday life. His coat not only controls whether he can go to the British
museum but also control whether he has enough money to buy writing materials. We
can say clothes have different meanings rather than just a cover of our body. Different
age, social class, sex, occupation of the person who is wearing the clothes can
make the clothes has varieties of meanings..
Along with the progressing
of materials and the pattern of the clothes, people began to call this the language
of the clothes. The multiple categories of the clothes and the social differences
of the person created a reflection of our social world. But McKracken argues in
his article that not every design is represented that significantly. For
example, a dress is commonly known as a female’s clothes but a design that
demonstrates the social status of a person will be relatively harder to
categorize. McKracken thinks that describing clothing as a language is not
accurate enough. The expressive properties of clothing will be vanished if we understand
clothing as a language. In McKracken’s view, language is just a tool of
communication. Which is not powerful enough to represents the cultural and
social ability of the clothing. In my point of view, McKracken is taking the
method of language of clothing too serious. The saying of “language of clothing”
should be just discussing about the symbolic functionality of the clothing ,
not actually overlaying the method of language onto material culture.
When studying on an object that is one
or two hundred years ago. Illustrate what it is the first important thing to
do. Giving the viewers the details of the object would be the first essential
goal of presenting the object. These basic information such as the material
used, who’s the owner, what year it’s made should be giving to the viewers
before researcher start telling the story of the object. The story of the object
I define is the most important in introducing an object. The social meaning of
the object and the connection of the owner with the object are the two factors
that are necessary.
沒有留言:
張貼留言